Americans were first who begging automate processes in light industry. They create automate cutting device (ACD) for cutting material flooring by special knife over the ordered program without previous marking. The path to wide spread using was not very easy. The developers over 5 years persuade entertainments of light industry in effectiveness of their method. Once they persuaded automobile entertainment to try cutting device to cut material for car seat covers. Results surpasse all expectations. After this case some entertainments in garment industry start to use cutting device. Very important that many present-day CAD Systems very similar to American system “Gerber”.

In USSR the first CAD System for light industry was jointly developed by specialist of Department mathematical and optimal projecting of Institute machine-building problem in Ukraine Academy of Science and Research and developing bureau of automated control systems for textile and light industry in Moscow. The system was developed on the base of ARM SM-4.

Specialist of Institute machine-building problem developed software for projecting markers.

Specialists of Research and developing bureau developed Automate Cutting Device (ACD) for cutting by laser beam.

In 1988 year software was demonstrated at Federal Exhibition Center in Moscow. CAD System was regarded by “Gold medal” because of realized program of automatically projecting marker surpass all well-known CAD System in the world.

This software serves the necessary need but didn’t become wide spread because of using ARM SM-4 which were only 2 units in USSR for light industry.

A wide developing of CAD Systems starts in 1990 years with spreading of IMB PC computers.

On the base of this software were developed two well-known CAD Systems “GRAZIA” and “Comtense”.

CAD System “GRAZIA” starts developing over 30 years ago. In 1972 in the Institute of machine-building problem of Ukraine Academy of Science was formed department of mathematical and optimal projecting. Disciple of academic Rvachev V.L professor Stoyan Y.G. was a chief of this department. Under the direction of Stoyan Y.G. were developing theory and mathematic method of geometric projecting. This theory allowed solving task of making marker layout as task of optimal layout geometric objects in ordered area.

In 1977 was created program automates forming section markers for cutting stockinet. Real optimal markers were formed in computer and drawn in natural size at plotter. Exactly using of special mathematic methods differ CAD System GRAZIA from other foreign and domestic systems.

The government buy some dozen foreign CAD Systems to reequipment fabrics of light industry. The development was organized for entertainments that didn’t receive foreign system. CAD Systems GRAZIA was developed in intimate contact with specialist of manufacture. It’s allowed to take into account features of domestic production and gives ground for further developing and perfection of system.

In 1991-1993 CAD System GRAZIA was installed at fabrics in Kyiv, Berdichev, Korosten, Chernigov, Arkhangelsk, Voronezh, Kaluga.

In 1994 It was opened new direction of installing CAD System GRAZIA – replacement foreign CAD Systems at fabrics.

At Kursk knitted industrial complex since 1989 were working Spanish system “Investronica” including Digitizer, Plotter and Automatic Cutting device. CAD System GRAZIA was install as parallel software and was connected to all equipment. The same work may be executed at different software – GRAZIA or Investronica. The results said what software s better. The results were estimated by two main activities: Time since input pieces with digitizer, gradation, layout markers and forming order for cutting flooring material by Automatic Cutting Device and Per cent of effectively used material at marker.During execution fifty experiment were getting next results: time of making order by GRAZIA less in 2,5 times and percent of effectively used material bigger at 2 per cent. After that all new models at Kursk industrial complex were created in GRAZIA.

To take no notice at excellent results of comparing the chief engineer Iliina Galina Ivanovna made conclusion: “These result support production quantity, but any system doesn’t support automation of pattern design”. Input pieces with digitizer, graphic modelling and gradation pieces by sizes don’t increase quality of goods and don’t promote assortment widening. This is only work for digitization of pieces to make marker.”

It was organized comparing and replacement with another CAD Systems.

System “Microdynamics” was used over 10 years at fabric “MAYAK” in Nizhni Novgorod. The fabric produce clothes for home market and execute orders for foreign companies with supplying pieces. In spring 1999 it was necessary to greatly decrease terms of preparation models for production to execute contract with German company. Specialist of “MAYAK” monitoring market of foreign and domestic CAD System and chosen CAD System GRAZIA to make experiment. Comparing CAD System GRAZIA and “Microdynamics” shows that time of preparing models for production decrease four times with GRAZIA. CAD System GRAZIA allow two ways of pattern design: old – with digitizer and new – analytic construction without digitizer, when complete pattern design is realized in computer.Today “Mayak” projects clothes for home market by a new way – analytic construction and execute orders for foreign companies by old way with digitizer.

In September 1999 at fabric “SINAR” in Nonosibirsk comparing of CAD Systems GRAZIA and “Lectra” shows that potential and productivity of CAD System GRAZIA a several times more.

At fabric “VOSHOD” in Nizhni Novgorod CAD System “Cybrid”.

Experiment shows that using CAD System GRAZIA allow to organize preproduction processes by a new way and decrease stuff because of no need in projectors that make gradation for sizes and heights and in specialists that layout pieces for marker. Creation of markers in CAD System GRAZIA executing more easier and conveniently than in other well-known CAD Systems. CAD System GRAZIA is based on mathematical methods of geometric projecting that guarantee precisely execution of technology requests for markers and provide essentially economy of materials.

Thus for organizing experiment of using GRAZIA at first it was principle to install GRAZIA simultaneously with another CAD System, connect to equipment and compare results. It was developed tools to data transfer using internet from another CAD Systems and using in GRAZIA.

It was organized seminar of leading experts to make first steps in automation of projection of pieces and pattern design. The chief engineer, leading constructors of Kharkov Fashion House, Moscow Fashion House, specialists of Kursk knitted industrial complex jointly discuss the main questions and task for analytic construction models.

It was established the main stages and tasks in pattern design:

1. Projecting model in base size – creation base construction by any methodic and creation model construction;
2. Grading pieces for needed sizes, height and fullness;
3. Reconstruction model’s pieces for individual figure by individual body dimensions;
4. Making model alteration with changes of fashion trends, material parameters, changing model additions and constructive decisions.

Nowadays more CAD systems don’t solve completely any task of pattern design. Usually it used next scheme.

Constructor make by hand pattern design for base size and input it digital form with digitizer. Or make this work in system with graphical tools. The main weakness of this way it’s disability to provide interdependence between related details and mating cuts. After sewing preproduction model making changing in model and it’s necessary to make changes in all related and mating cuts and sections, derivative and auxiliary details.

Creation model’s pieces in needed range of sizes and heights may be executed in 2 ways:

1. Reconstruction - Creation pieces in every size and height;
2. Gradation – stretching pieces from base size by ordering rate of stretching in constructive points to get pieces in others sizes and heights.

Reconstruction is more labour-intensive way but it provide high quality in every size. Gradation is more quickly way but it’s very approximate and cause of quality worsening, appearing defects in fit, fault in balance characteristic. The more further grading size from base one the more worse it’s quality.

The main irresistible failing of gradation it’s quality worsening in other sizes and heights.

Creating model’s pieces for individual body dimensions may be made only by reconstruction. Gradation is useless for this task.

In case of changing in model constructive additions and decisions it’s necessary to recreate almost all pieces.

Specialists of CAD System GRAZIA come to conclusion that elimination of this defects in automation of pattern design could not be realized with graphic methods.

In September 1995 it was set a problem to develop CAD System that automate pattern design with next requests:

1. Complete automation of all tasks for pattern design.
2. Possibility to use any construction methodic, jointly methodic or own original methodic. A creative work must be executed by specialist and all routine technical work must be executed be system.
3. A creative work must be executed by specialist and all routine technical work must be executed be system. Constructor creates in ONE BASE size any ready-made garment by any construction methodic. System precisely and quickly execute all tasks of pattern design: create in automate mode pieces of all needed sizes with guarantee quality of clothes; Reconstruct pieces for individual body dimensions accounting bearing; Prompt changing pieces in case of model modification as changing material properties, additions, fashion trends. Prompt automatically reconstruction of pieces for another size typology of body dimensions – Europeans, Asians, Americans etc.

CAD System GRAZIA was developed by jointly work of specialist of science, manufacture and educational institutions. It’s allowed to meet all request of science and practice.

Nowadays CAD System GRAZIA successfully used at 120 fabrics, studying 58 Universities, Institutes and colleges in Russia, Ukraine, Byelorussia, Kazakhstan and others. CAD System GRAZIA conducts intimate cooperation with educational institute and used for organizing researches and dissertations.

Specialists of CAD System GRAZIA assist to become familiar with high computer technologies, organize master-classes, defend of thesis by orders of entertainments and helps in a job placement for graduates.

Specialists of educational institutions submit proposals to perfect facilities of CAD System GRAZIA.

CAD System GRAZIA participates in All-Russian science practical conference “Modern technologies in design-education”, suggest solution of some educational problem for specialty “Design of costume” using computer technologies.

CAD System GRAZIA participate as jury in international competition of modellers and designers and assist to reduce time from designer’s intention to it’s realizing, gives tools for creative work and leave routine technical work to computer.

CAD System GRAZIA develops special Evaluation versions to give opportunity to specialist become more familiar with CAD System GRAZIA. Evaluation version can be ordered at the site WWW.SAPRGRAZIA.COM in section SPECIAL PROPOSAL.

Evaluation version has all functional capability as Industrial version but doesn’t permit to output work results to plotter. Details and pieces of models in could be output to printer in natural size by dividing in automatically mode on sheets format A3 or A4 and then these sheets can be agglutinated and used for manufacture.

To be continued...